It's the journey that matters most. Or is it?Read More
In Part 2, continued from yesterday's Episode 81, Edwin and I come up with our Top 3 List of things we've learned from climbing with better climbers.Read More
Climbing is unique in that we get to share the playing field with the best in the game. I can't think of a moment when you shouldn't use that to your advantage and pay close attention to what the better climbers at the crag are doing.Read More
In this much requested episode, I sit down with Salt Lake climber and coach Steve Maisch to discuss assessments. Steve had some of the first assessments I remember seeing online, and we go into how he's added, subtracted, and refined those. We talk a little about Steve's own assessments, and an important thing that he overlooked in his own training.
Many of us coaches are loosely collecting data for these assessments, but how important is it all, really? And are the standards anywhere near where they need to be? Stay tuned after the conversation for what comes dangerously close to a rant concerning the recent trend of measurements.
There are appropriate times to say "Take". There are also instances when saying it is only slowing your progress.Read More
With the amount of available information on training for climbing growing rapidly, it becomes increasingly harder to know what is worth keeping and what's trash.Read More
When Beth Rodden redpointed To Bolt or Not To Be in 1998 she became the youngest woman to climb 5.14a. Fast forward 20 years and Beth's website lists her as "Mother - Pro Climber - Writer". Mother first. Climbing is growing up.Read More
Dr. Allen Lim is a sports physiologist, author, and founder of Skratch Labs. We sat down at Skratch headquarters in Boulder, CO for what might be the most fascinating and easily digestible (pun intended) look at nutrition and hydration ever recorded. Seriously.Read More
Heather Weidner doesn't need an introduction, but this episode certainly does. When I recently watched a film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, putting her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth.Read More
Our top 10 most downloaded podcast episodes of 2017 include some of our personal favorites, and a few that surprised us!Read More
If you've heard of Justin Salas, you may refer to him as a "blind climber". You'd be wrong. He's a climber who happens to be blind, just like you're a climber who happens to have sight.
I had the opportunity to session with Justin at Tension Climbing, and it was fascinating to get to observe and be a part of his process, and talking through it with him was just as interesting. The tools that Justin uses to climb into the V-double digits are the same tools that we use, and the same ones that many of fail to cultivate. We've got a lot to learn.Read More
“The holds are facing the wrong way"
"This is too reachy"
"It's just the same move over and over"Read More
Russ Clune has climbed in more places than you. That is, unless you're Brittany Griffith (maybe).Read More
Marina Inoue is a 5'2" force to be reckoned with. She's intimidating until you talk to her, and then she's the sweetest person you've ever met.Read More
It's a new year, and it's our 2nd birthday! It's been a wild ride, and I want to say thanks to everyone for being on it with me. We'll hit 300,000 downloads today, which sounds absolutely crazy to me for a young, niche podcast.Read More
Routesetting is hard. You know that if you've tried to set your own problems. It's also hard on the body, so it's difficult to keep a high level of fitness while setting full time.Read More
At a time when we're seeing a whole generation of young crushers becoming adults, the role of the parent has become more and more important. Constance Lightner is, in my mind, a perfect representative for climbing parents.Read More
No, that isn't a typo. It would be amazing if we kept all our attributes forever, but the reality is that we lose things, we forget things, and we just stop doing some of the things that made us good to begin with.Read More
In this episode I sit down for an important conversation with wordsmith Kelsey K. Sather. We discuss her series of blog posts titled "The Work Behind the Body", a series of interviews with female outdoor athletes in Bozeman, Montana.Read More