There are a million of them out there, but not all finger strength protocols transfer well to climbing, or are time efficient, or are even possible with the tools we have. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.

EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Our Finger Strength Resource Page

Eva Lopez | The Best Hangboard Protocol

Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?

Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

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CHAPTERS

(00:00) Intro and Topic Explanation

(20:25) Long Duration Finger Health Hangs

(22:15) Multi-Grip Block Workout

(28:07) Eva Lopez MAW and MED Hangs 

(33:27) Too Easy to Fail (2 Hangs per Session)

(38:32) Offset Hangs or Pulls on a Hangboard or Bouldering Wall

(44:07) 6:10 Repeaters

(56:28) 5:55 Three Finger Alternating Hangs

(1:02:12) Three Max Hangs of 6 Seconds Each

(1:08:43) Outro

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