Even Good Beta Spray is Bad Beta Spray

PodcastsRants
Written By Kris Hampton
“For the things we have to learn before we can do them, we learn by doing them.”
— Aristotle
betaspray

Believe me, I understand the urge.  You want to help.  Or you want to show off.  Or you want to be the resident expert.  It could be that you have great intentions, and you really want to see that person succeed and progress in their climbing.  I doubt it - but it's possible.  

Problem is, progression is about learning, but because of your spray, they likely didn't learn a damned thing.

The more I coach climbers, the more I become aware of this fact.  I've been guilty.  When one of my partners is struggling, I'm always happy to help them work out what beta will be best for them.  I very rarely offer up beta to anyone but my closest partners, though it's happened, I'm sure.  

While I do try to always explain why the beta I'm suggesting is better, and what my thought process was, I'm still generally doing them a disservice by telling them in the first place.

Of course, there are two types of beta sprayers: those with good intentions, and those who just want to hear themselves sound smart.  You know the latter.  Ignore them.  While the sprayers with good intentions might be more tolerable, they may also be harming you…

WANT MORE? READ THE REST IN: The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber

MORE FROM "THE HARD TRUTH"
You Didn't Punt.
You Didn't Punt.

Redpointing is an ultimate success built on the backs of many failures.

Success vs. Mastery | Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber
Success vs. Mastery | Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber

Skaters do one important thing much better than climbers: they chase mastery instead of success.

The Send is a Necessary Piece of the Process
The Send is a Necessary Piece of the Process

It's the journey that matters most. Or is it?

3 Reasons Why Soft Grades Matter
3 Reasons Why Soft Grades Matter

It's exactly the same amount of challenging for you no matter what number anyone attaches to it.

You Should Probably Just Try Harder
You Should Probably Just Try Harder

How often do you give 100%? REALLY give 100%? I make my living coaching climbers, and I seldom see a climber try their hardest.  Myself included.

Even Good Beta Spray is Bad Beta Spray
Even Good Beta Spray is Bad Beta Spray

Even the sprayers with good intentions might be harming you.

No Kings, No Way
No Kings, No Way

Don't compare your beginning to someone else's middle.

Sandbagged: Are You Kidding Yourself?
Sandbagged: Are You Kidding Yourself?

It's the new buzzword that's been around forever: sandbagged.

The #1 Reason Why Your Climbing Training Doesn't Work
The #1 Reason Why Your Climbing Training Doesn't Work

Fact is, I train hard.  I train smart.

Goals Not Met: Freedom and Transworld Depravity
Goals Not Met: Freedom and Transworld Depravity

Goals aren't made to be met.

The Top 5 Bad Gym Habits of Sport Climbers
The Top 5 Bad Gym Habits of Sport Climbers

While in the gym, for the most part, boulderers are closer than sport climbers to training the correct way.

You Aren't Actually Training.
You Aren't Actually Training.

You aren’t training. You’re working out. There’s a difference.

Keeping Perspective for the Weekend Warrior.
Keeping Perspective for the Weekend Warrior.

It's easy to get discouraged by how quickly the pros seem to put down the hardest projects.

Yesterday I Went Shopping. Talk Is Still Cheap.
Yesterday I Went Shopping. Talk Is Still Cheap.

I get it.  Talking is easier than doing. What it isn't, however, is nearly as satisfying.

Don't Squash The Banana: Commitment
Don't Squash The Banana: Commitment

Nate snapped the banana in half.  Clean break, right through the middle.  Like a ninja.

Selective Learning: The Short-Sighted Approach
Selective Learning: The Short-Sighted Approach

You can almost always find a reason to continue training the short-sighted way.

How Your Friends Are Holding You Back
How Your Friends Are Holding You Back

There is NO single workout that any group of people can follow to get the optimum results for each of them.

Training Wheels: How to Climb Harder than the Other Newbs
Training Wheels: How to Climb Harder than the Other Newbs

Newbs, rejoice!  You get a whole post.  A short one, but your very own set of training wheels.

Climb Better Faster: The Magic Bullet
Climb Better Faster: The Magic Bullet

So how do you get better faster?  There's a simple answer.  You don't.

Train Wreck: 5 Ways to Derail Your Training
Train Wreck: 5 Ways to Derail Your Training

After much deliberation over a list of about 25, I've decided on the 5 ways I see experienced climbers derail their progression.

If You Aren't Making Progress, You're Probably Making Excuses.
If You Aren't Making Progress, You're Probably Making Excuses.

I hear them coming from every corner of the gym… excuses.

The False Ceiling: Has Your Skill Set Limited Your Training Gains?
The False Ceiling: Has Your Skill Set Limited Your Training Gains?

The fact is, you WILL NEVER get to within earshot of your potential if you don't have a complete skill set.

Intimidated?
Intimidated?

Our egos are ruthless. I've seen climbers stop a workout early because they didn't want to "look bad".

The Chains That Bind Us
The Chains That Bind Us

Fact is, seeing the "chains" as the sole representation of success is holding you back.

Featured
Episode 53: Pride or Spray? with Kerry Scott
Episode 53: Pride or Spray? with Kerry Scott

Kerry is a crusher.  And she's not ashamed to "spray" a little.

Even Good Beta Spray is Bad Beta Spray
Even Good Beta Spray is Bad Beta Spray

Even the sprayers with good intentions might be harming you.

Kris Hampton

A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering.  Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11. 

Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks.  He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com
Previous

Start Here:
Next

Episode 3: Coming Back Stronger with Rannveig Aamodt