Future Problems
How many times have you started trying a new hard climb only to immediately get distracted by thoughts of how you could be more prepared for it?
You encounter a hard heel hook move = “I should be stretching more.”
There’s a move that feels too big = “What if I start deadlifting and moonboarding?”
The crux revolves around a terrible crimp = *daydreams about hangboarding protocols*
Whenever I start down this rabbit hole — of putting more focus into how I can show up better prepared another day than what I can be doing right now in this moment — I remind myself, “That’s future Nathan’s problem.”
It’s addicting to daydream about how we can show up more prepared in the future. Well-intentioned brainstorming about improving ourselves can quickly devolve into avoiding the challenge in front of us.
Yes, It would be nice to be stronger and fitter. That isn’t happening today though. Right now, in this moment, you are as prepared as you’re going to be. What can you do to get the absolute most out of this time in front of you? Are you here to climb or are you here to daydream?
What if you turned your focus towards finding the best beta and body positions possible? Have you tried getting a power spot into that move to see what subtleties you might be missing? Have you tried the move seven times yet? Are there better tactics you could be using? Have you tried trying hard? Can you rest longer to feel more recovered for your next go? Do you have a snack you can eat to get more energy?
Right now, in this moment, it’s just you and the climb. Any attribute you wish you had is a problem for future-you. Take note of it and move on. Don’t let it distract you. If you can turn your entire focus onto what you are in control of right now, you might surprise yourself with what you can accomplish. That climb in front of you, the one that felt impossible an hour ago, might not be your future-self’s problem after all.
We know spending time on a finishing link is smart tactics for hard climbs. So why not apply the same concept to individual moves?
Learning when and how to compensate for a weakness is a skill. And skills need to be practiced.
Lowball boulders, while not as proud, can still teach us new movement, new ways to utilize tension, and force us into finding new techniques.
I never thought I’d be recommending this, but some of y’all should be putting less effort into becoming technically better climbers.
Training principles are important, but when they creep into performance, your climbing will suffer. Nearly every time.
We have become collectors of dots. But there’s one major thing that happens when we connect dots that is entirely lost in mass dot collection: critical thinking.
Do you really have terrible willpower? Or are you surrounded by distractions and obstacles?
You have a climbing trip coming up. The rock is different. The style is different. Your pre-trip time is short and the number of days you’ll be climbing, even shorter…
Giving artificially low grades to climbs increases their perceived value for our training and development. The more something is mis-graded the more we naturally want to prioritize it.
Discussion around grades can be so polarizing that many of us avoid the topic.
Climbing starts off as this self-feeding cycle that has you wishing you could climb seven days a week. What happens when this cycle stops bringing improvement though?
Look, it’s important to not let things get overcomplicated. Hunting for elegant answers keeps us from getting bogged down with minutia. But when we take it too far, we lose sight of the bigger picture.
Use strength to leverage every other aspect of your climbing, not replace them.
If everything you do is a finger workout, then when do your hands get a chance to recover?
There is a common theme between a grilled cheese sandwich and good training advice.
The more accurately we define our problems, the more approachable it will feel to find solutions.
Maybe the most understated way of getting better is to build fallback successes into your plan.
How much time should climbers spend becoming more well rounded vs. improving their strengths?
As cool as assessments and standards are, they can easily leave people settling for “good enough” when they have the potential to do much more.
Being able to quickly recognize familiar sequences is a crucial ingredient to harder climbing.
The difficulties of a task should be such that they help the learner translate the skill to performance.
It’s far more comfortable for us to blame ignorance for our lack of progress than it is to blame our own efforts.
You’re watching your client, student, partner, or bestie struggle. And you want to help. But how? It entirely depends on the goal.
We think we know exactly what climbing looks like. We’ve zeroed in on the details. And in this case, it really isn’t those details that matter.
One of the most common places things start to fall apart is at the very beginning of the move.