Quick Send Boulder Tactics on Ra, V10 (Video)
Leveraging intentional tactics often makes the difference between a quick send and project that drags on frustratingly long. For this particular project, I had checked it out one previous day, and hadn’t done several of the moves. It felt a long way off. I took a good weather window opportunity and made the 40 minute drive with a specific tactical assault in mind.
When we get geographically close to the top of a boulder, we believe that means we're close to the send. Sometimes, yes. But oftentimes, no.
Adam Ondra’s commentary on his legendary onsight, along with thoughts from a coach’s perspective.
Lowball boulders, while not as proud, can still teach us new movement, new ways to utilize tension, and force us into finding new techniques.
I never thought I’d be recommending this, but some of y’all should be putting less effort into becoming technically better climbers.
Useful data for coaches and climbers.
Improvement comes from challenges, not from the number they are given. If you focus on being challenged and trying hard, then the numbers will follow.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
We know spending time on a finishing link is smart tactics for hard climbs. So why not apply the same concept to individual moves?