Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in sport climbing.

Taylor Reed talks movement coaching and the role research plays in his evidence-informed coaching methods.

Rob Gray discusses two theories of skill acquisition and how climbing coaches can use them to help climbers better learn to move.

Skill Acquisition Specialist Rob Gray discusses the limitations of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners.

Climber performance metrics only tell a small part of a much more complex human story.

How to use data to inform training decisions had been a topic of debate amongst the Power Company coaches for years, until Data Analyst, Dale Wilson, stepped in to settle the score once and for all.

Are chalking up and shaking out helpful? Or just habits? And is just reading a research paper’s abstract enough to go on?

Examining a study that collected measurements from 55 women, what does the data say about today’s female climbers?

Can the measurement of contributing energy systems act as climbing performance indicators?

Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?

Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance.

How does the male/female performance gap in climbing compare to those in sprinting and distance running?

The International Rock Climbing Research Association seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented.

Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches.

Paul and Kris discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson.

Does this study reveal the best hangboard protocol for climbers?

Useful data for coaches and climbers.

We gathered the data. Here’s what it says about how finger and pulling strength combine for climbing performance.

The best place to start when training is knowing what you need to train.

Using science to inform climbing training is becoming increasingly popular, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance.