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Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's
Circuit Tape + Finger Care
Finger File + Climber Clippers
Boulder Bag
Apparel
The Hard Truth
Process Journal
Holds
Gift Cards
Back
All Courses
The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement
Coaching for Mastery
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Breaking Beta: The Science of Climbing
Written in Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents
Back
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Board Meetings | Our Favorite Finger Strength Protocols
Podcasts, Board Meeting, Strength Kris Hampton 6/6/24 Podcasts, Board Meeting, Strength Kris Hampton 6/6/24

Board Meetings | Our Favorite Finger Strength Protocols

Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.

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Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 7/13/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 7/13/22

Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?

Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?

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Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 2/9/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 2/9/22

Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?

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Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 1/19/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 1/19/22

Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?

Does hanging on edges also increase pinch strength?

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Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/12/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/12/22

Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?

Can we minimize tendon injury and return more quickly to climbing?

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Breaking Beta | Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 12/15/21 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 12/15/21

Breaking Beta | Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?

Are thicker fingers actually better for grabbing tiny grips?

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A Lot of Words About Fingers
Articles, Strength, Best Of Nathan Drolet 4/14/21 Articles, Strength, Best Of Nathan Drolet 4/14/21

A Lot of Words About Fingers

Nate provides more depth to the reasoning behind many common finger training methods.

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The Two Things You Need for Climbing Harder
Data and Assessments, Strength, Best Of, Articles Power Company Climbing 12/1/20 Data and Assessments, Strength, Best Of, Articles Power Company Climbing 12/1/20

The Two Things You Need for Climbing Harder

We gathered the data. Here’s what it says about how finger and pulling strength combine for climbing performance.

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Should You Start Hangboarding? | A Flow Chart
Strength, Best Of, Articles Kris Hampton 11/30/20 Strength, Best Of, Articles Kris Hampton 11/30/20

Should You Start Hangboarding? | A Flow Chart

The definitive guide.

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Ep. 149: Dr. Jared Vagy on Stretching, Prehab, and Other Hot Topics
Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Best Of Kris Hampton 11/4/19 Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Best Of Kris Hampton 11/4/19

Ep. 149: Dr. Jared Vagy on Stretching, Prehab, and Other Hot Topics

For Dr. Vagy’s third appearance on the podcast, we tackle some myths and hot topics about training for climbing.

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Ep. 147: Making Sense of Science for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 10/21/19 Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 10/21/19

Ep. 147: Making Sense of Science for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Using science to inform climbing training is becoming increasingly popular, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance.

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Sleight of Hand: Interchangeable Hangboarding (Video)
Products, Video, Home Gym Kris Hampton 4/20/19 Products, Video, Home Gym Kris Hampton 4/20/19

Sleight of Hand: Interchangeable Hangboarding (Video)

In a world where home training setups for climbing are increasingly important, saving space is key.

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Episode 114: Dealing with Climbing Injury with Esther Smith and Eva Lopez
Podcasts, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 11/15/18 Podcasts, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 11/15/18

Episode 114: Dealing with Climbing Injury with Esther Smith and Eva Lopez

Let’s face it. All of us who are trying hard to push ourselves will eventually be injured.

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Episode 107: Climb Injury Free Pt. 2 | Strength and Movement with Dr. Jared Vagy
Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Strength, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 10/19/18 Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Strength, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 10/19/18

Episode 107: Climb Injury Free Pt. 2 | Strength and Movement with Dr. Jared Vagy

With all the information out there on training, rehabbing, and performance, it’s tough to know where to start when you’re injured.

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Circuit Tape: Better Training Tape for Climbers
Products, Injury and Prevention, Tactics, Video Kris Hampton 9/15/18 Products, Injury and Prevention, Tactics, Video Kris Hampton 9/15/18

Circuit Tape: Better Training Tape for Climbers

Skin is your sending currency. Stop overpaying.

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Episode 88: Climb Injury Free Pt. 1 | Mobility with Dr. Jared Vagy
Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 3/27/18 Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Movement Practice Kris Hampton 3/27/18

Episode 88: Climb Injury Free Pt. 1 | Mobility with Dr. Jared Vagy

In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built.

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Episode 52: Common Climbing Injuries with Allison Stowers
Podcasts, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 7/24/17 Podcasts, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 7/24/17

Episode 52: Common Climbing Injuries with Allison Stowers

PT Allison Stowers talks how to self-diagnose, when to see a doctor about an injury, and most importantly, how to prevent them.

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Episode 51: Finger Health with Dr. Lisa Erikson
Podcasts, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 7/18/17 Podcasts, Injury and Prevention Kris Hampton 7/18/17

Episode 51: Finger Health with Dr. Lisa Erikson

Fingers are pretty important to us. Dr. Lisa Erikson takes us on a deep dive into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries.

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Pushing Through the Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Fingers and Elbows
Articles, Injury and Prevention, Strength Kris Hampton 1/11/13 Articles, Injury and Prevention, Strength Kris Hampton 1/11/13

Pushing Through the Tweaks, Twinges, and Pains: Fingers and Elbows

All of us are going to get hurt at some point.

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