Board Meetings | Our Favorite Finger Strength Protocols
Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.
Why Hangboarding Isn't Making Your Hands Stronger
If everything you do is a finger workout, then when do your hands get a chance to recover?
How to Climb Harder: What the Data From Over 600 Climbers Tells Us
Climber performance metrics only tell a small part of a much more complex human story.
Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?
Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?
Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?
Does hanging on edges also increase pinch strength?
Breaking Beta | Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?
Are thicker fingers actually better for grabbing tiny grips?
Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
Does this study reveal the best hangboard protocol for climbers?
A Lot of Words About Fingers
Nate provides more depth to the reasoning behind many common finger training methods.
The Two Things You Need for Climbing Harder
We gathered the data. Here’s what it says about how finger and pulling strength combine for climbing performance.
Simple Training During Covid-19 | Home Self Assessment for Climbers
The best place to start when training is knowing what you need to train.
Simple Training for Climbing During Covid-19
Training doesn’t have to stop just because your gym is closed.
Ep. 143 + 144: Top 5 Reasons Hangboarding is Overrated (and also Important)
Hangboarding is OVERRATED. But also important. These are the top 5 reasons why.
Sleight of Hand: Interchangeable Hangboarding (Video)
In a world where home training setups for climbing are increasingly important, saving space is key.
Episode 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez
Researcher, coach, and climber Eva Lopez discusses the reactions to her research about finger strength as we try to find out once and for all: What is the best hangboard protocol?
Poor Sods: How to Train Endurance in a Crowded Climbing Gym
Sod’s Law states: “Anything that can go wrong, will always go wrong, with the worst possible outcome.” Turns out, Sod generally spends his time at the climbing gym.
Episode 65: Board Meetings | Five Minute Fingers
The interwebs are going crazy over Andrew Bisharat’s new miracle hangboard program “Five Minute Fingers” and folks have asked for our opinion.
Episode 58: Comparing Hangboard Protocols with Steve Maisch
Steve Maisch discusses different hangboard protocols, when and why to use them, what they can do for you, and where they can go wrong.
Episode 49: A Better Strip of Wood with Tension Climbing
Tension Climbing makes wooden climbing holds. Why wood? That's exactly what I wanted to know.