Breaking Beta | Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?
Is creatine supplementation right for climbers?
Breaking Beta | Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?
Who is stronger: sport climbers or boulderers?
Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?
Does hanging on edges also increase pinch strength?
Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?
Can we minimize tendon injury and return more quickly to climbing?
Breaking Beta | How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?
How does 30 years of climbing affect our shoulders?
Breaking Beta | Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?
Is flexibility a good determinant for climbing performance?
Breaking Beta | Does Stretching Result in Power Loss?
Does static stretching really reduce strength and power?
Breaking Beta | Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?
Are thicker fingers actually better for grabbing tiny grips?
Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
Does this study reveal the best hangboard protocol for climbers?
Introducing... Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast
Explaining the science and calling out the misinterpretations.
Ep. 153: Dr. Natasha Barnes | Pain Science for Climbers
Are you injured? Or is your brain just telling you that you are?
Ep. 147: Making Sense of Science for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Using science to inform climbing training is becoming increasingly popular, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance.
Episode 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez
Researcher, coach, and climber Eva Lopez discusses the reactions to her research about finger strength.
Episode 106: Strength, Identity and Cancer with Joslynn Corredor
Joslynn Corredor is the definition of strength and courage.
A Sports Psychologist Looks at Episode 90: The Coach/Climber Dynamic
"A good coach-athlete relationship means that coaches allow themselves to not always be right..." - Madeleine Eppensteiner | Climbing Psychology
Episode 92: Health Starts in the Gut with Aicacia Young, RDN
Registered Dietician Aicacia Young believes that health begins in the gut, and she LOVES to talk about it.