No Kings, No Way
This essay is from the book The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber by Kris Hampton, illustrated by Brendan Leonard.
"Comparison is the thief of joy." -Theodore Roosevelt
Around here, we like to use the hashtag #webuildmachines.
However, I'm acutely aware that you could just as often substitute with the hashtag #webuildmonsters, and I don't mean that in a positive way. Anytime that you are working to build up bodies and spirits, and help people break into new personal levels, it's inevitable that some egos will over-inflate. They'll grow bigger and bigger, heavier and more cumbersome, and eventually, those Hindenburgian egos will come crashing down.
And it's going to hurt.
Let me start by saying this: I've never had a bad day rock climbing, and I've never had a bad day training. Have I performed poorly? Absolutely. Have I sucked at climbing sometimes? Definitely. But I'm in the woods climbing rocks, or I'm at the gym working to better myself. I CHOSE those things. What could possibly make me upset to be there?
You failed on your project, lowered off dejected, and then somebody warmed up on it. You suck, you'll never be good, you may as well quit.
Don't be an idiot…
That person was once where you are. That wasn't always their warmup, and their project is someone else's warmup. Don't compare your beginning to someone else's middle. While I was projecting Transworld Depravity, the hardest route I've sent, I had the pleasure of watching a (then unknown) Alex Megos flash it as a warmup. I watched several friends send it much faster than I did. This didn't diminish at all the feeling I felt when I finally clipped the chains.
There's another thing it didn't do. It didn't diminish the psyche I felt at seeing a random person send their first 11b, which, incidentally, was my warmup that day. They were inspired to see me climb and downclimb it without chalking, same as I was to watch a young rosy-cheeked Megos walk Transworld Depravity a year prior.
For the last couple of years I've listened over and over to the album No Kings, by one of my favorite hip-hop collective, Doomtree. Its concept is simple, one we could all do well to live by:
There are no kings. There are no peasants.
Your battle on your project is no different than Sharma battling on First Round First Minute, or Nalle on his multi-year Lappnor Project, which became Burden of Dreams. It's no different than a beginner slapping and clawing their way up their first 5.9.
This is a personal struggle. If, for some reason, you believe that yours ranks higher than that of someone else then your biggest struggle isn't on the rock at all.
I've built machines. I've also built monsters. Frankly, I feel bad about it. Climbing can't be much fun when you're mostly concerned about how you compare to everyone else.
Skaters do one important thing much better than climbers: they chase mastery instead of success.
It's exactly the same amount of challenging for you no matter what number anyone attaches to it.
How often do you give 100%? REALLY give 100%? I make my living coaching climbers, and I seldom see a climber try their hardest. Myself included.
While in the gym, for the most part, boulderers are closer than sport climbers to training the correct way.
It's easy to get discouraged by how quickly the pros seem to put down the hardest projects.
I get it. Talking is easier than doing. What it isn't, however, is nearly as satisfying.
Nate snapped the banana in half. Clean break, right through the middle. Like a ninja.
You can almost always find a reason to continue training the short-sighted way.
There is NO single workout that any group of people can follow to get the optimum results for each of them.
Newbs, rejoice! You get a whole post. A short one, but your very own set of training wheels.
So how do you get better faster? There's a simple answer. You don't.
After much deliberation over a list of about 25, I've decided on the 5 ways I see experienced climbers derail their progression.
I hear them coming from every corner of the gym… excuses.
The fact is, you WILL NEVER get to within earshot of your potential if you don't have a complete skill set.
Our egos are ruthless. I've seen climbers stop a workout early because they didn't want to "look bad".
Fact is, seeing the "chains" as the sole representation of success is holding you back.
As climbers, we fail a lot. And yet, we don’t even like to hear the word.
In an ideal world, grades would be objective and we’d have some universal formula for how they’re decided. But we don't live in an ideal world.
Juliet Hammer is no stranger to crushing double-digit boulders, and unfortunately, to dealing with internet haters, too.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Redpointing is an ultimate success built on the backs of many failures.