Episode 93: Being Good Climbing Partners with Scott Pagel and Tyler Algeo
A good climbing partner can be your greatest asset. If you dispute this, it's because you've never had a great partner, and you're just going to have to trust me.
This episode could easily have been categorized as a Not So Average Joe episode. This is because both of these guys still don't quite understand what their capable of, and it's unlikely they would have reached their current level without the other on the belay.
I've worked with both Scott and Tyler for quite some time, and I'm damned proud of the work we've done. We all sat down together in Cincinnati to discuss the ins and outs and ups and downs of being climbing partners. What it means, how to recognize it, and how to cultivate it. We walk through a season that for both of them has been paradigm shifting.
They are two opposites who have built something that both can stand on to reach further, and are eager to continue learning and improving. While Tyler is the more analytical of the two, both analyze every detail of their climbing days and talk it over. This paragraph from a recent email speaks volumes:
The following videos are comparisons made by Tyler, the "thinker" of he and Scott on recent big sends. If you aren't doing this at least occasionally, you definitely should be.
Both Tyler and Scott started their training journey with our Climb 5.12 program.
35 years after he realized one of his own dreams and jump started the dreams of so many others, we REWIND to this conversation with legend Paul Piana.
7 years later, almost to the day, that Tommy and Kevin topped out the Dawn Wall together, we REWIND to this conversation about belief and partnership with Tommy Caldwell.
Some say it doesn’t work. We disagree.
Ever wonder why it seems like some people who train and train and train still can't improve their climbing outdoors? Let us explain.
Some say that mentorship is dying. I'm not sure that's true, although mentors are definitely outnumbered by new climbers these days.
"A good coach-athlete relationship means that coaches allow themselves to not always be right..." - Madeleine Eppensteiner | Climbing Psychology
A good climbing partner can be your greatest asset. If you dispute this, it's probably because you've never had as great a partner as Scott or Tyler.
Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel set the bar high for being a successful coach/climber team. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage.
Continued from yesterday's Episode 81, Edwin and I come up with our Top 3 things we've learned from climbing with better climbers.
Climbing is unique in that we get to share the playing field with the best in the game. If we pay close attention to what the better climbers at the crag are doing, we can learn a lot.
A recent film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, which put her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, left a bad taste in my and others’ mouths.
So often we don't believe we can do a route because of one difficult move. Now imagine dozens of those moves that take you years to unlock.
Justen is an accomplished climber and coach known for his ability to get into a climber's head.
There’s A LOT of great information out there on how to climb harder. But it’s tough to sort through…
Learning when and how to compensate for a weakness is a skill. And skills need to be practiced.
Today, we rewind to an episode with Hazel Findlay in which she shares strategies for getting into the right mindset to send.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Joy Black is a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers.