Episode 90: The Coach/Climber Dynamic with Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel
In this episode I talk with a successful coach/climber team: Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage. She's the USA Climbing Youth National Champion in speed climbing, as well as a qualifier for the US Youth Team in all 4 disciplines - Sport, Speed, Bouldering, and the Olympic Combined Format.
In one of my favorite moments of the episode, Bella talks about the photos her mom takes of her, exhausted at the end of a drill prescribed by Taylor. She happily agreed to share those photos with us, and her explanation of why is exactly the reason for this conversation.
Check out Taylor's Beta Angel Project at www.beta-angel.com, a site dedicated to making research and data available and accessible to coaches and climbers. If you're a regular listener, you know that I have an aversion to reading research, though I understand that it's a necessary evil. I'm happy to know that there is a place I can go where other climbers have already examined the research and thought through it. I truly believe this will end up being a go-to resource for the community.
35 years after he realized one of his own dreams and jump started the dreams of so many others, we REWIND to this conversation with legend Paul Piana.
7 years later, almost to the day, that Tommy and Kevin topped out the Dawn Wall together, we REWIND to this conversation about belief and partnership with Tommy Caldwell.
Of all the people that I spoke with this year who were stuck in plateaus, many of them had the same thing in common: they climbed and trained alone.
Building community is better business.
Some say it doesn’t work. We disagree.
On race, mentorship, tough conversations, and making art.
Ever wonder why it seems like some people who train and train and train still can't improve their climbing outdoors? Let us explain.
Some say that mentorship is dying. I'm not sure that's true, although mentors are definitely outnumbered by new climbers these days.
Nate and Kris discuss how climbers are a product of their environment.
Dru Mack was given a list by JStar that is a surefire way to develop into a better climber. Now he’s made some lists for you.
"A good coach-athlete relationship means that coaches allow themselves to not always be right..." - Madeleine Eppensteiner | Climbing Psychology
A good climbing partner can be your greatest asset. If you dispute this, it's probably because you've never had as great a partner as Scott or Tyler.
Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel set the bar high for being a successful coach/climber team. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage.
Continued from yesterday's Episode 81, Edwin and I come up with our Top 3 things we've learned from climbing with better climbers.
Climbing is unique in that we get to share the playing field with the best in the game. If we pay close attention to what the better climbers at the crag are doing, we can learn a lot.
A recent film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, which put her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, left a bad taste in my and others’ mouths.
So often we don't believe we can do a route because of one difficult move. Now imagine dozens of those moves that take you years to unlock.
Jonah Durham has been very aptly described as "the sweetest kid ever." You could also call him a crusher. Either way, nobody will argue.
Justen is an accomplished climber and coach known for his ability to get into a climber's head.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Joy Black is a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers.