A Better Framework for Assessing and Improving Climbing Movement and Technique
Improving movement skills is by far the most abstract part of becoming a better climber. And arguably the most important part.
REWIND | Breaking Beta: Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in sport climbing.
CONFLICTED | Boards as Climbing Movement Assessment Tools
If we want to assess our climbing movement skills over time, are the standardized boards the best option? We're conflicted…
Board Meetings | How Nate Assesses Climbing Movement Skills and How You Can Self-Assess
How do we decide where to focus our efforts when it comes to becoming a BETTER climber – rather than just a stronger one?
You Aren't Strong Without Strengths
As cool as assessments and standards are, they can easily leave people settling for “good enough” when they have the potential to do much more.
How to Climb Harder: What Data From Over 600 Climbers Tells Us
Climber performance metrics only tell a small part of a much more complex human story.
Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics
How to use data to inform training decisions had been a topic of debate amongst the Power Company coaches for years, until Data Analyst, Dale Wilson, stepped in to settle the score once and for all.
Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked
Objective metrics might not be the best way.
Breaking Beta | What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?
Examining a study that collected measurements from 55 women, what does the data say about today’s female climbers?
Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?
Paul and Kris discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson.
Metrics for Climbers | Strength and Endurance Standards
Useful data for coaches and climbers.
The Two Things You Need for Climbing Harder
We gathered the data. Here’s what it says about how finger and pulling strength combine for climbing performance.
Simple Training During Covid-19 | Home Self Assessment for Climbers
The best place to start when training is knowing what you need to train.
Ep. 147: Making Sense of Science for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Using science to inform climbing training is becoming increasingly popular, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance.
Episode 80: Assessments with Steve Maisch
Salt Lake climber and coach Steve Maisch had some of the first assessments I remember seeing online, and we go into how he's added, subtracted, and refined those.