CONFLICTED | Boards as Climbing Movement Assessment Tools
If we want to assess our climbing movement skills over time, are the standardized boards the best option? We're conflicted…
Kris and Nate discuss the pros and cons of using boards when trying to assess our movement skills as climbers.
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You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing
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CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme, Intro, and Topic Description
(3:38) Kris and Nate’s Stances
(5:41) Pro: Often Less Populated
(8:34) Pro: Boards Are Standardized
(10:46) Why Climbing Is the Best Assessment for Climbing
(14:09) Signal vs. Noise
(17:46) Pro: Boards Keep Improving
(20:38) Pro: Angle Change Can Help You See Where Things Fall Apart
(24:52) Pro: If It’s What You’ve Got, It’s a Good Tool
(26:57) Pro: Ability To Create Coaching Playlists
(27:44) Con: No Need for Adaptability
(30:05) Con: Limited and Rewards a Specific Strength or Style
(35:01) Board Climbing Is Wine, Outdoor Climbing Is Coffee
(38:49) Con: Self-Assessment Introduces More Bias
(39:46) Con: Single Snapshots Not As Useful for Assessing
(42:03) Wrap Up
(43:53) Credits and Outro
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Kris Hampton
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.