A Better Framework for Assessing and Improving Climbing Movement and Technique
Improving movement skills is by far the most abstract part of becoming a better climber. And arguably the most important part.
FOCUS | Q & A Part 1: Climbing Movement Principles, Skill vs. Strength, and How to Evaluate
Sent in from our Patrons, Kris answers questions about what you want to know most when it comes to climbing movement.
REWIND | Breaking Beta: Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in sport climbing.
Nate Drolet | A Consultation with The Struggle Climbing Show
Nate talks movement analysis and technique in a consultation with host Ryan Devlin on The Struggle Climbing Show.
CONFLICTED | Boards as Climbing Movement Assessment Tools
If we want to assess our climbing movement skills over time, are the standardized boards the best option? We're conflicted…
Board Meetings | How Nate Assesses Climbing Movement Skills and How You Can Self-Assess
How do we decide where to focus our efforts when it comes to becoming a BETTER climber – rather than just a stronger one?
Expert | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching
Taylor Reed talks movement coaching and the role research plays in his evidence-informed coaching methods.
You Aren't Strong Without Strengths
As cool as assessments and standards are, they can easily leave people settling for “good enough” when they have the potential to do much more.
How to Climb Harder: What Data From Over 600 Climbers Tells Us
Climber performance metrics only tell a small part of a much more complex human story.
Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics
How to use data to inform training decisions had been a topic of debate amongst the Power Company coaches for years, until Data Analyst, Dale Wilson, stepped in to settle the score once and for all.
Board Meetings | How to Tell if Your Training Worked
Objective metrics might not be the best way.
Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?
Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery
Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance.
Better Call Paul | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing
How does the male/female performance gap in climbing compare to those in sprinting and distance running?
Metrics for Climbers | Strength and Endurance Standards
Useful data for coaches and climbers.
Simple Training During Covid-19 | Home Self Assessment for Climbers
The best place to start when training is knowing what you need to train.
Episode 80: Assessments with Steve Maisch
Salt Lake climber and coach Steve Maisch had some of the first assessments I remember seeing online, and we go into how he's added, subtracted, and refined those.