Board Meetings | Our Favorite Finger Strength Protocols
Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.
Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?
Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?
Does hanging on edges also increase pinch strength?
Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?
Can we minimize tendon injury and return more quickly to climbing?
Breaking Beta | Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?
Are thicker fingers actually better for grabbing tiny grips?
Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
Does this study reveal the best hangboard protocol for climbers?
The Two Things You Need for Climbing Harder
We gathered the data. Here’s what it says about how finger and pulling strength combine for climbing performance.
Power Strips | Level Up Your Campus Training
From coach Nate Drolet and Tension Climbing, the obvious next progression in campus training is here.
Ep. 147: Making Sense of Science for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Using science to inform climbing training is becoming increasingly popular, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance.
Ep. 143 + 144: Top 5 Reasons Hangboarding is Overrated (and also Important)
Hangboarding is OVERRATED. But also important. These are the top 5 reasons why.
Ep. 134: Board Meetings | Should You Train Full Crimp and Pockets?
Many trainers say you shouldn’t. We disagree.
Episode 65: Board Meetings | Five Minute Fingers
The interwebs are going crazy over Andrew Bisharat’s new miracle hangboard program “Five Minute Fingers” and folks have asked for our opinion.