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Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's
Circuit Tape + Finger Care
Finger File + Climber Clippers
Boulder Bag
Apparel
The Hard Truth
Process Journal
Holds
Gift Cards
Back
All Courses
The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement
Coaching for Mastery
The Shape of Power
Boulder Builder
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Back
All Shows
The Power Company Podcast
Breaking Beta: The Science of Climbing
Written in Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents
Back
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Entire Archive
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Power
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Board Meetings | Our Favorite Finger Strength Protocols
Podcasts, Board Meeting, Strength Kris Hampton 6/6/24 Podcasts, Board Meeting, Strength Kris Hampton 6/6/24

Board Meetings | Our Favorite Finger Strength Protocols

Kris and Nate discuss their favorite protocols, both that they use themselves and in programming for their clients.

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Why Hangboarding Isn't Making Your Hands Stronger
Articles, Strength Nathan Drolet 12/29/22 Articles, Strength Nathan Drolet 12/29/22

Why Hangboarding Isn't Making Your Hands Stronger

If everything you do is a finger workout, then when do your hands get a chance to recover?

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Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 2/9/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Extensive Endurance, Intensive Endurance Kris Hampton 2/9/22

Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?

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Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 1/19/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 1/19/22

Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?

Does hanging on edges also increase pinch strength?

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Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/12/22 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/12/22

Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?

Can we minimize tendon injury and return more quickly to climbing?

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Breaking Beta | Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 12/15/21 Breaking Beta, Podcasts Kris Hampton 12/15/21

Breaking Beta | Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?

Are thicker fingers actually better for grabbing tiny grips?

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Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 12/8/21 Breaking Beta, Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 12/8/21

Breaking Beta | Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?

Does this study reveal the best hangboard protocol for climbers?

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A Lot of Words About Fingers
Articles, Strength, Best Of Nathan Drolet 4/14/21 Articles, Strength, Best Of Nathan Drolet 4/14/21

A Lot of Words About Fingers

Nate provides more depth to the reasoning behind many common finger training methods.

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How to Train Contact Strength | A Spectrum of Exercises
Articles, Strength, Power, Best Of, Video Kris Hampton 4/5/21 Articles, Strength, Power, Best Of, Video Kris Hampton 4/5/21

How to Train Contact Strength | A Spectrum of Exercises

A spectrum of exercises to train contact strength.

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The Two Things You Need for Climbing Harder
Data and Assessments, Strength, Best Of, Articles Power Company Climbing 12/1/20 Data and Assessments, Strength, Best Of, Articles Power Company Climbing 12/1/20

The Two Things You Need for Climbing Harder

We gathered the data. Here’s what it says about how finger and pulling strength combine for climbing performance.

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Should You Start Hangboarding? | A Flow Chart
Strength, Best Of, Articles Kris Hampton 11/30/20 Strength, Best Of, Articles Kris Hampton 11/30/20

Should You Start Hangboarding? | A Flow Chart

The definitive guide.

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Power Strips | Level Up Your Campus Training
Power, Products, Intensive Endurance, Video, Home Gym, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/13/20 Power, Products, Intensive Endurance, Video, Home Gym, Best Of Kris Hampton 10/13/20

Power Strips | Level Up Your Campus Training

From coach Nate Drolet and Tension Climbing, the obvious next progression in campus training is here.

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Ep. 147: Making Sense of Science for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 10/21/19 Podcasts, Injury and Prevention, Data and Assessments Kris Hampton 10/21/19

Ep. 147: Making Sense of Science for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Using science to inform climbing training is becoming increasingly popular, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance.

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Ep. 143 + 144: Top 5 Reasons Hangboarding is Overrated (and also Important)
Podcasts, Strength, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 9/16/19 Podcasts, Strength, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 9/16/19

Ep. 143 + 144: Top 5 Reasons Hangboarding is Overrated (and also Important)

Hangboarding is OVERRATED. But also important. These are the top 5 reasons why.

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Ep. 134: Board Meetings | Should You Train Full Crimp and Pockets?
Podcasts, Board Meeting, Strength Kris Hampton 6/19/19 Podcasts, Board Meeting, Strength Kris Hampton 6/19/19

Ep. 134: Board Meetings | Should You Train Full Crimp and Pockets?

Many trainers say you shouldn’t. We disagree.

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Sleight of Hand: Interchangeable Hangboarding (Video)
Products, Video, Home Gym Kris Hampton 4/20/19 Products, Video, Home Gym Kris Hampton 4/20/19

Sleight of Hand: Interchangeable Hangboarding (Video)

In a world where home training setups for climbing are increasingly important, saving space is key.

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Episode 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez
Podcasts, Strength, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/10/19 Podcasts, Strength, Best Of Kris Hampton 1/10/19

Episode 118: The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez

Researcher, coach, and climber Eva Lopez discusses the reactions to her research about finger strength.

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Episode 65: Board Meetings | Five Minute Fingers
Podcasts, Strength, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 11/16/17 Podcasts, Strength, Board Meeting Kris Hampton 11/16/17

Episode 65: Board Meetings | Five Minute Fingers

The interwebs are going crazy over Andrew Bisharat’s new miracle hangboard program “Five Minute Fingers” and folks have asked for our opinion.

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Episode 58: Comparing Hangboard Protocols with Steve Maisch
Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 9/21/17 Podcasts, Strength Kris Hampton 9/21/17

Episode 58: Comparing Hangboard Protocols with Steve Maisch

Steve Maisch discusses different hangboard protocols, when and why to use them, what they can do for you, and where they can go wrong.

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Episode 49: A Better Strip of Wood with Tension Climbing
Podcasts, Products, Home Gym Kris Hampton 7/5/17 Podcasts, Products, Home Gym Kris Hampton 7/5/17

Episode 49: A Better Strip of Wood with Tension Climbing

Tension Climbing makes wooden climbing holds. Why wood? That's exactly what I wanted to know.

Read More
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