What Type of Climbing Movement Do You Value?
Maybe “careless and sloppy” isn’t always so bad.
REWIND | Board Meetings: The Art of Learning Climbing
One of our favorites: Kris and Nate discuss ideas about our mental models for learning, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
Why “Technique” May Not Be The Answer to Better Climbing
How do you solve a problem? By looking for a solution.
Expert | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
Rob Gray discusses two theories of skill acquisition and how climbing coaches can use them to help climbers better learn to move.
Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills
“Climbing is a skill sport,” isn’t enough.
FOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers
Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED.
Roy Quanstrom | Translating Movement Through Shaping and Setting
Kris sits down with shaper and setter Roy Quanstrom, of Tension Climbing to talk about his latest holds and more.
Breaking Beta | Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?
What does science say about warming up before performance?
Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?
Why Strength Training Isn’t Making You Climb Harder
Climbers will dedicate years to getting “strong enough” when what they really need is to learn how to apply the strength they already have.
Breaking Beta | Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?
Is flexibility a good determinant for climbing performance?
Breaking Beta | Does Stretching Result in Power Loss?
Does static stretching really reduce strength and power?
Success vs. Mastery | Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber
Skaters do one important thing much better than climbers: they chase mastery instead of success.
BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
A way to think about improvement based on ideas from Josh Waitzkin, author of The Art of Learning.
Ep. 148: Will Anglin and Rowland Chen | P.O.E. 2
Position Over Everything. Part 2 of a cult classic.
Reflections on Yoga and Climbing
Yoga and climbing seem to go together. But does yoga help your climbing?
Episode 124: Meditation and Yoga for Climbers with Susan Ashley Hunt
Yoga and meditation have been practiced for thousands of years, so there's far more to it than the core strength, flexibility, and mental focus promoted by popular culture.
Episode 117: Form and Function with Ayo Sopeju
Ayo Sopeju is a competitive climber, head setter at The Minneapolis Bouldering Project, and an artist who takes the utmost care with his work.
Climb Better: How to Bulletproof Your Technique
It's no secret that skills deteriorate with fatigue, particularly a complicated, high skill sport like climbing.
Episode 108: Motor Learning with Trevor Ragan from Train Ugly
If you're a coach, this is a must listen to episode. In fact, if you're a climber who wants to learn to climb better, it's a must listen.