Breaking Beta | Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Just how valid is isometric finger testing? And can it predict your climbing ability?
Thermostat Training
Most climbers train the way my friend’s grandma uses a thermostat.
Why Strength Training Isn’t Making You Climb Harder
Climbers will dedicate years to getting “strong enough” when what they really need is to learn how to apply the strength they already have.
Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery
Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance.
Better Call Paul | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing
How does the male/female performance gap in climbing compare to those in sprinting and distance running?
Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
The International Rock Climbing Research Association seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented.
Better Call Paul | How Do We Choose and Read Research Papers?
Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches.
Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?
Paul and Kris discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson.
Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn from Season 1?
Paul and Kris discuss what they learned from Season 1 of Breaking Beta.
Why Aren't You Worse at Climbing?
If you want better answers, start by asking better questions.
Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Gamifying Climbing
Not all games are created equal.
Breaking Beta | Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Does this study FINALLY reveal the best hang protocol for climbers?
Breaking Beta | Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?
Is creatine supplementation right for climbers?
Breaking Beta | Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?
Who is stronger: sport climbers or boulderers?
Breaking Beta | Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?
Does hanging on edges also increase pinch strength?
Breaking Beta | Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?
Can we minimize tendon injury and return more quickly to climbing?
Breaking Beta | How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?
How does 30 years of climbing affect our shoulders?