Episode 76: Fueling from Skratch with Dr. Allen Lim
Dr. Allen Lim is a sports physiologist, author (you can find his great cookbooks below), and founder of Skratch Labs. We sat down at Skratch headquarters in Boulder, Colorado for what might be the most fascinating and easily digestible (pun intended) look at nutrition and hydration ever recorded. Seriously.
We talk how hydration works and why water just isn't enough. We also go into recovery and why Skratch decided not to mess with the magic of chocolate milk. Because I think it's important for you (and me) to understand, Allen explains the lineup of Skratch products and how and when to best use them.
In the spirit of full disclosure, I've been an Ambassador for Skratch Labs for several years. This interview was in no way connected to that relationship, other than the fact that I believe in the company, the products, and the philosophy they keep.
Dr. Lim's books, co-authored with Chef Biju Thomas, are must haves in my opinion. Particularly Feed Zone Portables, which is a great collection of healthy, energy packed crag food. If you buy through these links, we get a small percentage (without raising your price), and you're helping to support the Power Company Podcast.
Kris and Nate are joined by Lauren and Caitlin of The Average Climber Podcast, to discuss some of the biggest ways climbers get in their own way.
Does using the nutritional supplement beta-alanine improve climbing performance?
Can we minimize tendon injury and return more quickly to climbing?
Climbing has never been purely physical.
Recognizing and dealing with eating disorders in climbing is a prevalent but often ignored issue.
A personal perspective on body image as a climber, from Lauren Abernathy and Kelsey K. Sather.
Registered Dietician Aicacia Young believes that health begins in the gut, and she LOVES to talk about it.
Dr. Allen Lim, sports physiologist, author, and founder of Skratch Labs gives us a simplified breakdown of nutrition and hydration.
Kelsey K. Sather discusses her series of blog posts titled "The Work Behind the Body", a collection of interviews with female outdoor athletes in Bozeman, Montana.
Dr. Shannon and I discuss the products that Gnarly Nutrition offers.
Dr. Shannon O'Grady of Gnarly Nutrition talks protein: why do we need it, how much do we need, and what's the best way to get it.
Dr. Shannon O'Grady, Ph.D., of Gnarly Nutrition talks us through BCAA’s: what they are, why we need them, how to use them, and more.
If you've been around climbing long enough, you know someone who has struggled with an eating disorder.
I blank out immediately when talking the details of nutrition. Not so with our guest today, Neely Quinn.
There is actually a difference between the muscle burn that you feel during intense exercise and true muscle fatigue.
I wanted to give you guys and girls the heads up on these two books so that you can get your hands on them.
Anonymous writes... How important do you think nutrition is when trying to improve/achieve new climbing goals?
Use strength to leverage every other aspect of your climbing, not replace them.
Part three from Nate: training in December and January, how I spent my time in Hueco to keep preparing myself for sport climbing, and what I’m doing from here.
If you've ever been to "24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell", then you've no doubt heard of Dick Dower and Natalie Neal Dower.
I know you've all been training hard, and I just want to be sure you aren't getting sidelined by some silly overuse injury.
One comment I often get is that a client wants to train hard and be dedicated to climbing while remaining healthy and injury free.
A climber since 1994, Kris was a traddie for 12 years before he discovered the gymnastic movement inherent in sport climbing and bouldering. Through dedicated training and practice, he eventually built to ascents of 5.14 and V11.
Kris started Power Company Climbing in 2006 as a place to share training info with his friends, and still specializes in working with full time "regular" folks. He's always available for coaching sessions and training workshops.
Certified Nutrition Specialist Caitlin Holmes discusses body composition, which is often conflated with weight loss and can thus be a very polarizing topic.