Meet the Machine: Anaheed Saatchi

When/why did you decide to start training?

I decided to start training after years of figuring out how to access the climbing community/industry in ways that felt good for me. At this point, I feel ready and equipped to build on that foundation - both for myself and my love of climbing - but also as an organizer who loves sharing climbing as a way of connecting and building strong, empowered communities.

What made you choose to go with Power Company?

I loved seeing the collaboration between the Power Company and Brown Girls Climb to offer two free Custom Plans for folks. While I didn't win a Custom Plan, I was still offered a free Proven Plan from Kris and Dru since they believed in why I wanted to get training! Even more, they make it clear that they are invested in local initiatives as well as climbing on the national/international scale. I also think the Power Company Podcast is really great and informative, which translated to a trust that the program would be holistic and thoughtful, which it was.

What plan did you do and how did you choose that one?

Climb 5.12 (Boulders Only) Proven Plan. It came down to cost - I can't afford a membership to both a rope gym and bouldering gym in Vancouver.

Sweet Pain (11d) | Red Rocks, Nevada. Photo by Will Higgins.

What aspect of the plan did you like best? Why? 

I loved the app - I found it really accessible and easy to use/build my own schedule.

What aspect of the plan did you like least? Why?

I don't have any real complaints. I would've liked to be able to see lists of workouts from weeks past but have been told that a compiled PDF can be made available which would help me reflect on what I did!

What were your goals when you began the plan? How did you progress towards those goals?

My goals were about being more confident on the wall and making moves with ease. And to not injure myself. I took it slow at first, making sure my self-talk was positive, and I focused more than ever on my weaknesses (first figuring out what they were) and my technique!

Tell us about any memorable successes during/after your training experience.

In February, my gym set up a bunch of fun dynos since it was a leap year and I was able to play and have fun with them instead of shying away. Sometimes I stuck the move and sometimes I didn't, but I never felt like I wasn't good enough to try. I stopped caring about end results and got really into the process.

What's the next step in your climbing and training?

While being responsible and staying home [during quarantine] I'd like to focus on integrating more nutrition into my training which will be a lot of hangboarding and overall fitness since I'm not actually climbing. I want to do my best to maintain grip strength, etc. but am also not putting too much pressure on myself. Whenever I am able to touch real rock again I know I'm just going to be grateful for the privileges of health and mobility. The training I do now is for my mental and emotional health more than ever before.

What would you say were the most important things (positive or negative) you learned during your training experience?

Not to compare myself and my climbing to anyone, which doesn't mean I can't observe/mimic/incorporate what others are doing. But my relationship to climbing is so personal and I was able to tap into how I feel when I climb/when I'm pumped and doubtful so that I can push through in healthy ways, or understand that what I need most is rest.

What would you consider your greatest strength or superpower when it comes to climbing?

Holding space for folks to try climbing, or for them to try new things in climbing! Modeling behaviors that encourage everyone to feel comfortable climbing and being together exactly how they need.

Bouldering in Isfahan, Iran. Photo by Teresa Prado.

Tell us about your proudest (not necessarily hardest) send.

“Bum Boy” (V3) during the Color the Crag festival in 2019. I first tried the problem the year prior and couldn't get it. I want to say I went away and trained and so I came back way stronger and sent it that way... but that wasn't the case. I might have been slightly stronger but it still took me a million attempts, obsession, and belief that if I kept trying it would go. The reason it's my proudest is partly for the send itself (it's a fun problem!) but mostly for the folks that were there to celebrate with me, knowing we had all been going through the same internal struggles to climb and believe we could succeed.

What would you say is a weakness or skill you need to improve in climbing?

My breath - it's deeply connected to things like confidence, quality of movement, and being aware of my emotions enough to maneuver them, especially fear!

What advice would you give someone considering starting a training plan?

Make sure your inner voice is the kindest possible and afford yourself adequate rest.

---

A note from Kris:

There is more here that I can’t leave unsaid. Anaheed is a brilliant thinker, leader, and writer of both fiction and non-fiction, and has written extensively about climbing and community building for Melanin Base-Camp. They also co-founded the climbing community initiative BelayALL. I highly suggest you allow yourself to be challenged by their ideas.

---