Meet the Machine: Briana Blanchard

When/why did you decide to start training?

I began training a year ago after feeling like my gym sessions were being wasted and having literally no mental space to figure out what I needed to improve my climbing. I was desperate for structure and guidance if I was going to climb harder and better, so I purchased an Ebook plan and haven't looked back. Having structure and someone to tell me what to do is exactly what I needed.

What made you choose to go with Power Company?

Living in Kris's hometown, it wasn't a difficult choice. I remember seeing someone wearing a Power Company sweatshirt in the gym, which prompted me to do some research. I'd say I jumped on the bandwagon, but hey, everyone's gotta start somewhere.

What plan did you do and how did you choose that one?

I've done a number of plans in this order: Boulder Better Ebook, Applied Body Tension Ebook, and Boulder Better Proven Plan. When I first started the Boulder Better Ebook, I was sending V4 in the gym once in a while. My hope was to flash V4, improve my technique, and gain power and fitness. By the end of this plan my endurance had improved and I was flashing multiple V4’s in a single session. I wanted to make improvements on my skills on overhung boulders and routes, so I purchased the Applied Body Tension Ebook and have integrated a lot of drills into my regular training and gym sessions.
In December 2019 I started the Boulder Better Proven Plan with the goal of consistently sending V5, and send a few V6's (of which I never had). By the end of this training plan I was sending V5 regularly in the gym, sent two V6’s, and had an incredibly proud and groundbreaking V5 send outside.

Did you work with a coach? If so, which one?

I did not work with a coach during these plans, however I always appreciated Kris checking in via social media and showing his support.

Sunny Rose, V5 - Stone Fort, Tennessee | Photo by Sam North

What aspect of the plan did you like best? Why?

I loved that the Proven Plan held me accountable because I knew I had to get it done.

What aspect of the plan did you like least? Why?

I just hate that I didn't work with a coach! Working with one on the Proven Plan is definitely the way to go!

What were your goals when you began the plan? How did you progress towards those goals?

My goal when I began the Boulder Better Proven Plan was to send V5 on a consistent basis and send a few V6’s. It seems cliche, but you eat an elephant one bite at a time. The process takes time, and definitely doesn't come overnight (although we can all dream it might). You take the steps and stick to it. It’s hard, but nothing worth doing is easy.

Tell us about any memorable successes during/after your training experience.

Near the end of my training plan I sent my second V6 - on my 30th birthday!

What's the next step in your climbing and training?

The next step for me is to continue working on my mental game for sport climbing. The goal is to send 5.12 this year!

What would you say were the most important things (positive or negative) you learned during your training experience?

Climbing owes you nothing. It’s a complete fallacy that you "should be able to" send a specific grade or climb harder than the next person. The ego is a thief of joy and when you focus on the process and what YOU need to do - and less on everything else - you'll see success. Plus, you'll be happier!

What would you consider your greatest strength or superpower when it comes to climbing?

I can lock off on a heinous crimp for what seems like forever.

Sunny Rose, V5 - Stone Fort, Tennessee | Photo by Biz Young

Tell us about your proudest (not necessarily hardest) send.

My proudest send was Sunny Rose (V5) at Stone Fort in Tennessee. That boulder became a mountain before I even touched the rock, suspending me somewhere between can and can not. It was never about physical ability but a mental challenge I could either face or walk away from. So I listened. I let self-doubt, fear of failure, my ego, comparison, and all of my mental barriers exist. I heard them. I saw them. I let them exist and teach me, instead of consume me. I believed I could overcome, and I did.

What would you say is a weakness or skill you need to improve in climbing?

I'm still working on my mental game. I do a lot of comparison and put too much pressure on myself when I'm climbing, so I'm working on lowering those expectations while still trying hard, managing my anxiety to prevent shut down, and working on the things I can control.

What advice would you give someone considering starting a training plan?

Don't expect results overnight. It's going to be hard work, but it'll be worth it.