- Articles
- Best Of
- Board Meeting
- Breaking Beta
- Client Testimonials
- Coaching
- Community
- Data and Assessments
- Extensive Endurance
- Home Gym
- Injury and Prevention
- Intensive Endurance
- Mental Training
- Movement Practice
- Movie Night
- News and Events
- Physical Training
- Podcasts
- Power
- Products
- Rants
- Strength
- Tactics
- The Current
- Travel
- Video
- What When How To Train
FOCUS | Q & A Part 2: Movement Solutions, Finding Better Beta, and Toe Hooks vs. Heel Hooks
Sent in from YouTube subscribers, clients, and more, Kris answers more questions about climbing movement in this Part 2!
FOCUS | Q & A Part 1: Climbing Movement Principles, Skill vs. Strength, and How to Evaluate
Sent in from our Patrons, Kris answers questions about what you want to know most when it comes to climbing movement.
Why “Technique” May Not Be The Answer to Better Climbing
How do you solve a problem? By looking for a solution.
Your Greatest Climbing Strength Is Holding You Back
If we’re always compensating for some weakness or skill we don’t yet have, how will we ever improve?
Taped Tips | The Most Underrated Climbing Movement Skill
Despite being constantly present and often the reason we fail, Rhythm is the most underrated of the Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement.
A Better Framework for Assessing and Improving Climbing Movement and Technique
Improving movement skills is by far the most abstract part of becoming a better climber. And arguably the most important part.
I Had to Commit.
I wrote a book about commitment in climbing. I should have known.
Climbing Movement: Practice vs. Performance
But then it hit me… Techniques are just the language we use to name the combination of elements as they show up in usage.
Your Climbing Technique DEPENDS On It
No matter what technique, its success depends on getting the basic elements right: Position, Tension, Rhythm, Commitment, and Effort.
Taped Tips | Climb Taller AND Smaller
Short climbers are good at getting scrunchy, and tall climbers are good at climbing extended, right? Wrong.
REWIND | Breaking Beta: Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in sport climbing.
Nate Drolet | A Consultation with The Struggle Climbing Show
Nate talks movement analysis and technique in a consultation with host Ryan Devlin on The Struggle Climbing Show.
Board Meetings | A Better Way to Look at Climbing Movement
Kris presents his idea of the Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement to Nate and asks for his thoughts.
Expert | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing
The former German National Team coach talks motor learning, coaching movement, and what makes Janja and Tomoa special.
CONFLICTED | Boards as Climbing Movement Assessment Tools
If we want to assess our climbing movement skills over time, are the standardized boards the best option? We're conflicted…
Expert | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool
Co-founder of Tension Climbing, Will Anglin, talks movement skills, how climbers can continue improving, and the tools that can help.
Plugging In To Climb Better
Particularly when it comes to climbing better, knowledge alone isn’t all that helpful.
Builder | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills
Lauren Abernathy, coach and owner of Good Spray Climbing, works hard to help her clients – and herself – become better climbers.
Board Meetings | How Nate Assesses Climbing Movement Skills and How You Can Self-Assess
How do we decide where to focus our efforts when it comes to becoming a BETTER climber – rather than just a stronger one?
Expert | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching
Taylor Reed talks movement coaching and the role research plays in his evidence-informed coaching methods.
Board Meetings | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?
If the more you climb, the better you get, then why do we all know that one guy that’s been climbing forever and still stuck at 5.10?
What Type of Climbing Movement Do You Value?
Maybe “careless and sloppy” isn’t always so bad.
REWIND | Board Meetings: The Art of Learning Climbing
One of our favorites: Kris and Nate discuss ideas about our mental models for learning, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
Expert | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
Rob Gray discusses two theories of skill acquisition and how climbing coaches can use them to help climbers better learn to move.
Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills
“Climbing is a skill sport,” isn’t enough.
FOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers
Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED.
Roy Quanstrom | Translating Movement Through Shaping and Setting
Kris sits down with shaper and setter Roy Quanstrom, of Tension Climbing to talk about his latest holds and more.
Breaking Beta | Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?
What does science say about warming up before performance?
Breaking Beta | Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
Can we effectively measure movement skills in climbing?
Why Strength Training Isn’t Making You Climb Harder
Climbers will dedicate years to getting “strong enough” when what they really need is to learn how to apply the strength they already have.